shelf life of rope

[MessedUpMike]

A buddy of mine gave me a climbing rope he no longer uses. It's a 60m long 11mm kernmantle rope that was used for about 3 40' rappels and then stored in his garage after that. The rope may be as old as 5 years. Is this still safe to use or should i just go out and buy some new rope?

[Brian Roebuck]

Well Mike we just got home from caving all day so I'll give it a quick reply!

Many of us rappel on older ropes than that. It depends on how the rope has been cared for. There are basic rules about rope strength that give you a pretty good idea of how much weaker they become over the years. Most caving ropes such as PMI etc hold up very well for many years if cared for properly. I am not the best guy to answer your question but you can likely find more answers on the web from places like PMI or On Rope1 etc. Google to find the actual web addresses. I recall OnRope1 has all sorts fo rope data you would be interested in. www.onrope1.com

But in the end you have to ask yourself the question: Do you want to trust your life to something you are not sure of?

I am adding a bit more this morning after a good nights rest... Climbing rope may not be suitable for caving. Dynamic climbers rope is stretchy to allow you to be stopped less violently in case of a fall when climbing (I hear that is a common occurrance for climbers). Cavers use static rope that is much less "bouncy" since we don't normally do aid climbs and simply rappel pits and climb back out on the same rope. A dynamic rope would be so bouncy climbing that it would be much less efficient. They are good for use a belay lines for cavers bolting up leads etc but generally dynamic ropes are not used by cavers much in the US. Check out PMI rope availabel from many sources. It is the US "standard" by which all other caving ropes are judged. Good stuff in my opinion.

[Brad Tipton]

Don't take this as an assurance that your particular rope is safe. I have many ropes that are 9 to 10 years old. I take great care of my rope and I have 100% confidence in each one despite their age. The difference in my 10 year old ropes and your 5 year old rope is I have owned each rope since they came off the spool. Therefore I know how they have been handled, the enviroment they have been stored in, etc.

A PMI manufactured rope should be safe for use for about 15 years, IN MY OPINION. That is assuming that the rope has been cared for and stored properly. Others might disagree. I would never suggest anyone using a rope that was given to you by another party. There are just too many factors that are in play during that ropes 5 year life to take that chance. IN MY OPINION, the better option would be to can it, just in case. That is what I would do......I guess my life just means that much to me.

[guanonoggin]

Dude,

New rope is way good Karma man! The longer the rope is the better the Karma it brings.

Chuckie

[MessedUpMike]

Um Uh.......

Messed with the rope a little today. Turns out it's dynamic rope. Guess it's time to go by some more.....

[Brian Roebuck]

messedupmike said:

Um Uh.......

Messed with the rope a little today. Turns out it's dynamic rope. Guess it's time to go by some more.....

Yep that wouldn't be too useful for caving except for using it for belay rope for a bolt climb etc. Some cavers use some as part fo their climbing rigs in small lengths as well. Go grab up some PMI pit rope. It's good stuff and you'll know what you are trusting your life to.

[geoff]

A UK input ....

Personally Im happy to exchange my SRT rope every 5 years as recommended by the rope manufacturers etc (We use 10mm typically, but I also use a length of 9.5mm Kevlar cored)

Some people in UK advocate a rope drop test to extend its life, but you are only testing a small section, maybe the part not damaged, and its statistically questionable.

My friends use my rope and as I respect their life and my own, I am quite happy to fork out $1.50 per metre (yard) for good quality SRT rope and replace it regularly whenever needed.