American or European Rope Techniques?

[Tech Support]

Recently there's been a trend in my area to rig caves and do things euro-style. While there isn't a whole lot of difference in the SRT per se, the rigging is.

I learned American style rigging and rope work. A couple of years ago I went to a favorite cave and found that one of the members with our group rigged it european style including putting bolts at intervals down the main entrance shaft (-315 feet). Hence I had to cross about four bolts where as before it was just a nice straight shot to the bottom of the drop.

I didn't mind but all things being equal I'd rather had just done one single straight shot down. Now going up is another matter. I like the european idea because it allows more people to get on rope (particularly in a cold alpine cave) once a caver has crossed a rebelay another can get on and so on and so on and thus people are kept moving rather to wait for one (or two tandem) climber to make the full ascent. Seems to me that the last person down could take the time to rig the drop as needed for multiple people on rope. Still, it's one more opportunity to cross a rebelay/bolt and do it wrong. Easy to do after a hard 6-12 (or more) hour cave trip.

Lately the trend is going to areas of "only frog" and only Bobbin-type descenders (Stops and Simples) and how they're more superior than other methods i.e. racks, eights, rope-walkers/double bungee, mitchells, etc.

I'm good at either American or European techinques. Could practice a bit more with the Euro but would prefer to stay with what I initally learned because that's what I got good at.
Ok question. Is one better than the other and are there ways to incorporate both into a single method of doing SRT?
Just throwing the question/topic out there for discussion.

[geoff]

Hi, I’m from London UK and cave using SRT (single rope technique). SRT and the way we go up and down on typically 10mm rope is what I guess you guys call European style, but I’m a little confused at your comments when you seem to suggest European style avoids straight drops …...

Here in UK, at least in my experience, we rig a rope ALWAYS as a straight drop, so it avoids ALL rub points and so it hangs straight down the hole the easiest and quickest way down – then we normally use a Petzl Stop, or if the pitch is very long some may use a rack. Reason – Stop is easy to move across rebelays; on longer pitches if you descend fast then stop, the <Stop> can damage the rope (melt it !) so people may prefer racks on nice deep straight drops here in UK, but as most are not too long, the preference is we use the Petzl Stop as standard – nothing else ! Given a choice, as I say, we rig straight drops and NOT rebelays or deviation if they are not required. Typically, as mentioned, we use 10mm semi static rope and have two “cowtails” a short one and a long one (the longest is just within hand reach under load) although I have arranged the safety line from my harness D ring to my hand jammer as yet another cowstail to help when Im rigging.

I have no experience with your rope-walkers but ive heard that they are very good on the very deep straight drop pitches you guys have in US and for this they are reportedly better than our SRT gear.

We hear that there is a growing trend for our style of SRT in the US and elsewhere as the kit is overall lighter (and cheaper ?) but for sure take care to regularly train to correctly use the Petzl Stop and I would always use it with a braking Krab !

Your comment on passing rebelays after a long trip and possible mistake - In the UK if a SRT caver cannot every time cross a rebelay or deviation (or very occasional knot) then they should not be on a rope underground ( in my humble opinion) and should consider more practice in the gym !! My experience is that the length of the trip is not the overall issue; it’s the height you are climbing back up and how quickly, your fitness and your power to weight ratio.

Also its worth adding that many of our popular caves have resin bonded P hangers very carefully placed so that NO ONE needs to cause “bolt rash” by putting in their own spits and of course once a spit is placed my a caver, its available for others to use, without having to set their own.

Hope this helps start your debate.

[NZcaver]

Geoff,

I think when "tech support" talks about a straight drop, he/she in referring to rigging a rope without rebelays/deviations - regardless of whether it touches rock or not. Common US rigging generally uses 11mm rope which is fairly resistant to abrasion. Any major rub points (usually at the top of a drop) will be padded, but that's it.

As for bobbin vs rack - the major reason to go with a full size J-rack is for easy adding/subtracting of friction on long (non-rebelayed) drops. On shorter drops, I find a bobbin (particularly a Stop) smaller, lighter, and more convenient. Of course, ones definition of "shorter drops" varies from person-to-person. Some say 100m, some say more (or less).

I'm not really aware of "areas of Frog only and bobbin only" drops in the US - I think it's more about personal preference and the types of vertical caves in the area. I've often been on vertical trips where people are using 2 or 3 different systems on the same trip. True - the Frog system has become much more popular in the US in recent years, mostly for the smaller/lighter/cheaper reasons that Geoff mentioned. And it's generally much easier to negotiate rebelays and other obstacles with a Frog too. There will always be need for the efficiency of a Ropewalker, though - like for those deep, straight-drop pits in TAG.

I must confess I'm more used to the US rigging style than the European one - but I still practice rebelays occasionally. Both systems have their merits, and die-hard users of each technique would do well to contemplate the other. Tech's post about descending the straight drop and having the last person down rig the rebelays for the climb is a novel idea. Good thinking! ;D

[Sharon Faulkner]

nzcaver said:

I think when "tech support" talks about a straight drop, he/she in referring to rigging a rope without rebelays/deviations - regardless of whether it touches rock or not. Common US rigging generally uses 11mm rope which is fairly resistant to abrasion. Any major rub points (usually at the top of a drop) will be padded, but that's it.

NZcaver has it right with this answer, at least as far as TAG caving is concerned. Of course bolts are placed when and where they are appropriate, but generally are not placed only to avoid contact with rock. ;D

For instance the warm up pit in Ellisons Cave below is a good example. You can see where thousands of cavers have rappelled this in-cave pit leaving well defined grooves where ropes have crossed the lip of the pit:




Another example from Neversink, an open air pit. Note rope on bottom right of photo:

I'm not really aware of "areas of Frog only and bobbin only" drops in the US - I think it's more about personal preference and the types of vertical caves in the area. I've often been on vertical trips where people are using 2 or 3 different systems on the same trip.

I'm not aware of any Frog only or bobbin only areas in the U.S. either, though they may very well exist. I've seen a bobbin, but have never been on a trip where someone was using one. Most people I've caved with use the standard 6 bar rack or a microrack. I have been on trips where a figure 8 was used, but even this has been rare. Frogs, Ropewalkers, Mitchell, and Texas are all frequently used ascending systems, with Frogs and Ropewalkers being the most popular I suppose.

There is nothing wrong with Euro style rigging and the use of a smaller diameter rope would certainly make rebelays more of a necessity. Good topic for discussion, but I'm not sure that there is a real debate to be had over the issue. When in Rome.... ;D

[Brian Roebuck]

I've used a figure 8 on a few nuisance drops in caves (less than 100 feet deep) to save weight in my pack. I don't like them very much since they wear away aluminum as they are used and this gets into the rope. Also the non-rescue (no "horns") versions can get locked if the rope slips around forming a friction knot. Not good! Still they have their limited uses. I have caved with a few Petzl "Stop" users but I too prefer the rack overall in TAG. It is heavy and cumbersome but I feel safer and well equipped using it.

I have also tried a quickly rigged frog system. Yes it was light but it was not tuned very well to my body thus I did not like climbing on it. I do prefer to have three contact points while climbing since a failure of part of ones' system at a bad time could be disasterous. Frogging is usually using only two points of contact (unless you add redundant gear).

Bottom line is that you only have one chance at a successful rappel (abseil) and maybe one and a half chances of a successful climb. If you fail it is usually not good!

Gravity sux!

[geoff]

The photo’s are real Interesting …. “indestructible rope technique” ive heard it called and I don’t mean to be rude. Even with 11mm UK cavers would NOT rig a rope over a lip without good protection, if it could not be avoided altogether by rigging differently, so our rope hangs straight and free down the pitch in air, avoiding all rubs (well that’s the theory…).

I find my Petzl stop with 10mm works great; some few use 9mm but I don’t personally consider this holds enough reserve and it is “fast” , but I would imagine that your 11mm (typically now rescue rope in UK but may be used a <club> rope) would be very very hard going used with a Stop, esp if muddy.

I have a friend whose son leads a team working at serious heights in the US oil rig industry, Huston area, and the feedback I got is that they use our Euro technique, a Stop to about 175 feet, then a rack for drops beyond this. I would agree and can see the logic for around this distance. We would not consider a Fig 8 for caving, but I do own one.

For sure the European system has to be adjusted to your own body dimensions and indeed there is the rule to maintain 2 points of contact at all time unless descending, not the 3 points of contact you apparently get with the US rope walker. Im happy with 2 points of contact bearing in mind that the biggest risk is prob a) with your single point of contact descender and how you use it and b) the attachment and rub security etc of the single rope that you are on.

Also as a comment, we keep our rope in rope bags and typically suspend these from our D ring while we descend ( ie the rope feeds out of the bag as we do down) it avoids shags etc but for sure makes us remember to tie a knot I the rope end (big smile). I believe the background to this is because our caves involve more crawls and therefore more chance of rope damage while we do this – and of course we have a strong regard for preserving our rope and life .....

The two main methods have most certainly developed in my view due to the deep pitches you have in the US compared to most of Europe and the short, lightweight demands that our caves are better suited for. If you are trying a Stop, I would recommend you use 10 mm rope for a fair comparison.

By the way, with your rope walker system and others used in US do you have procedures for getting a person off the rope real quick if they get stuck etc ? ?

Geoff

[Brian Roebuck]

Geoff,
I am not much of a vertical caver compared to many of my caving friends but as an engineer I have a better than average understanding of the physics and materials involved in vertical work. I can see that European techniques have evolved to fit the needs and styles of cavers there. I suspect from reading about European caving that your fellow Euro cavers have overall better training (at least more consistant) than many US vertical cavers. Of course the US Cavers that take rescue classes learn many more vertical techniques than the common "pit bouncer" so prevalent in the southeastern US (TAG for example). Many of these pit bouncing only cavers know enough to get them safely up and down ropes but not much more and that is somewhat frightening. If they were to have equipment failure, get hit by falling objects, or simply screw up they could get in serious trouble fast. We do not have very many accidents thankfully but the potential is high for some of these people. There is no universally accepted level of training required to allow someone to attempt a rappel or climb. In fact a few weeks ago we witnessed a young man do his first rappel on a borrowed rack into a 147 foot deep open air pit. He also made his first climb using borrowed gear. While he did a great job (better than I do it seems) he was lucky to have had ideal conditions and just enough word of mouth training to be successful. I warned him afterwards to not get too confident in his newfound skills and to practice such things outside caves first. I hope he took heed.

I have not seen too many cavers here use a rope bag suspended below although I can think of places where it might be good practice. Our indestructable rope (PMI brand usually) seems to wear well in the softer limestones in TAG. Most people find the sheath wears out leaving the core relatively intact even in severe rubbing cases. I would hate to be greeted by that sight at the top of several hundred feet of rope climb though! The rope can hold about 6000 lbs of static load when new. That translates into enough strength to break your neck due to the sudden stop if you fell far enough to come close to test the strength limits of this static kernmantle style of caving rope. You would be more likely to melt through it or cut it on sharp stone edges than have it fail in tension if the rope is not extremely old and/or worn out. The other vertical equipment is also similarly overdesigned (in fear of lawsuits and to make it quite bullet proof) such that it usually will not fail in tension. Maillon links unscrew, caribiners get unclipped, people allow their gear to get worn out, and some even fail to connect it properly. These are the usual culprits to vertical accidents.

Most competant vertical cavers practice changeovers to allow for efficiency in changing direction should the need occur. Due to the plethora of vertical gear available (some customized by individuals here in the US) there are no standardized methods. In general though the main styles of systems are similar enough to allow for some amount of methodology to be taught. Rope walkers, Mitchells, and other three point systems are a bit trickier to change over with than frogs or Texas two point of contact systems but do allow for continued climbing should a piece of gear fail. I use a modified Mitchell system and can change it to a type of frog system if I have to. The most widely taught lesson here in TAG by the vertical gurus that abound is that a caver should practice outside caves for rappel, climbing, system tuning, and emergency procedures until he or she is comfortable with everything before entering caves to do vertical work. Most cavers adhere to this rule. Some of the ones we occasionally hear about on the evening news ignore it.

[NZcaver]

drbeaner said:

... I do prefer to have three contact points while climbing since a failure of part of ones' system at a bad time could be disasterous. Frogging is usually using only two points of contact (unless you add redundant gear)...

I'm curious - how often have you experienced a failure or non-correctable problem with one of your ascenders while climbing?

I'm aware of a couple of cases where one ascender disconnected from the rope - but they were basically user error. The resulting situation (with a Frog) is that you're held by just one ascender - not ideal, but not exactly the end of the world either (assuming you can regain that other point of contact and continue climbing). Anyway, it's not likely you would accidentally release that last ascender that has your entire weight on it while hanging somewhere in mid-rope.

I usually Frog, and I always carry something "redundant" that will work as a backup ascender. Actually - more like 3 backups (paranoid, who me?) I have a Petzl Basic that I can clip on my cowstail and use as a quick attachment safety, plus a Petzl Tibloc and a small Prusik loop. I've used them in various situations, but I've never had a for-real failure of my primary ascenders. [Crossing fingers and knocking on wood...]

[Brian Roebuck]

NZ,
Fortunately I have never had any failures of equipment but I have heard about / read about people that have. It comes down to attachment point failures rather than the actual ascenders in most cases. For example a piece of webbing from an ascender suddenly comes loose, breaks, cuts, etc and allows the caver to flip inverted hanging by his foot straps. (Now THAT would cure me from doing further vertical caving! ;D ) I have also read about people getting ascenders jammed into rack faces etc and it would be nice to have other gear to allow safe attachment while down climbing to release the jammed gear. Muddy and icy ropes may also call for additional points of contact to spread the load and allow upward progress to be maintained. Other oddities that could occur are losing the pivot pin from a Gibbs ascender or chest roller, bungee cord breakage on some of the rope walkers, clothing or hair entanglement in ascending gear. The list goes on as Murphy's Law is unforgiving and ever changing.

In the long run if I were to find a good easy way to have redundant rappelling equipment I would also employ that. (There are various knots in use that almost satisfy this requirement in my opinion.) Overall I believe in redundancy (paranoia indeed!) for vertical work because the risk is so much greater than common horizontal caving. And then there is cave diving which takes all this to even further paranoid redundancy levels! It only takes one fatal accident to kill you for good!

"Hang" in there...

[geoff]

Drbeaner
with your rope walker system and others used in US do you have procedures for getting a person off the rope real quick if they get stuck ? ?

say they were just refusing to move by shear fright first time down, maybe total exhaustion, do you actually train so someone in the caving party could get them off the rope quickly, within say a 10 minute period and if you do are there any problems coping with the various different rigs people use, or would it be normal practice to wait for cave rescue ??

Geoff

[Brian Roebuck]

Geoff,
Honestly around here I would have to say that about 80% of vertical cavers do not train for such an emergency. Many have great skills and could handle the situation competantly but actual training is usually reserved for those who take NCRC courses or specialty courses in vertical skills. Much of what we learn we learn from caving mentors and friends. While this is not all bad I would feel more comforatable caving with trained experts.

This is of course my opinion and as I have stated I am not very experienced (compared to many of my caving friends) with vertical caving so you should evaluate my words accordingly.

Anyone else care to let Geoff know what they think?

[NZcaver]

drbeaner said:

Anyone else care to let Geoff know what they think?

I think that's a fairly accurate assessment, although the 80% may differ a little depending on the region.

So your reasoning for preferring 3 ascenders is to minimize the danger resulting from little snafus like slings breaking, lever-cam pin problems, chest roller issues, bungy cord tangles/breaks etc - right? Here's a thought. Is it possible some of these risks could actually be reduced/eliminated when using a simpler 2-ascender system like the Frog?

True, the Ropewalker needs 3 ascenders for safety and convenience (ie to provide a resting position). But I would argue the Frog is no less safe because it only requires 2.

It's the KISS principle...

[Bill Greenwald]

Been following your coversations about US and Euro techniques....
Have you any input into the "Harness Hang Syndrome" problem on long drops?
In the case of the Euro multi-drop situation with rebelays a caver could get into a on rope traffic jam and have to wait a while to get to the next pitch if some was having some gear problems.

Am courious if anyone has ever tried one of the "Belay Pods Harness" for about $40 from IMO in the US. It sure looks like this hammock lookig harness could get the harness pressure off your legs or even help with an injured climber. The description say...
[This tough nylon seat lets you hang out wherever you want! Seat and back adjust to any position via quick-release Fastex buckles. Collapsing spreader bar at top ensures comfort. Packed in a handy cinched ditty bag. 9 oz]
Thanks,
billgrnwld

[geoff]

I must say that frankly I can see no real need for 3 points of contact unless the well known efficiency of rope walker type systems provides this extra security for free – two points provides reasonable redundancy in my view, bearing in mind the equipment reliability and durability and the unlikely technical possibility of being able to disconnect a body weight loaded attachment ! Ive heard it quoted that most UK problems occur on ladders under 30 feet and wrong use of equipment resulting in for example uncontrolled “clutch and plummet” using a stop descender incorrectly.

In UK I would say that its more like 95 % of people who train by example, from peers and other club members and word of mouth – it’s the exception here ( at least in my club) for anyone to have paid training.

Its a fair observation that our Euro system opens up the technical <possibility> that multi people on the same rope, if spaced between rebelays, could cause a traffic jam if one has a problem …. But I think the obvious points must be considered

a)
Harness Hang Syndrome, Suspension Trauma or one of its many names can lead to a fully fit person being dead in their harness in as little as 10 minutes www.suspensiontrauma.info

This stuck person needs immediate help and the person in front or behind is that lifesaver

b)
In practice traffic jams don’t happen – in the worst case we of course all carry the means to either descend or ascend (or indeed climb straight pass a stuck caver ).

c)
Everyone in our Club who practices vertical caving is VERY aware of Suspension Trauma. Tonight for example Ive just got back from a training practice in a 65 foot shaft and 2 /3rds of those present knew the procedures for rapidly getting a stuck person off the rope, carry equipment to help with this, add in a spare rope where this makes sense, always carry a knife etc and our frog kit makes it <possible> but not easy, to get some one off the rope to safety in 10 minutes ….. we hope.

I am however highly aware that we may then have to fight the paramedic crew NOT to lay that caver flat – to prevent them killing him or her.

Well that’s our choice of hobby …..

Ive often wondered if a nappy type harness, as used in catamaran “trapeze” sailing, could help in caving - maybe the < Belay Pods Harness > Bill refers to is along this same line.


Geoff

[NZcaver]

geoff said:

I must say that frankly I can see no real need for 3 points of contact unless the well known efficiency of rope walker type systems provides this extra security for free...

A major reason the Ropewalker needs 3 ascenders is that the lowest foot ascender is not considered a life safety device. Not because of the model of ascender, but because it's only attached to a strap around your foot and nothing else! I guess that was a good reason for Petzl to clearly mark their Pantin ascender as NOT PPE. The knee-level ascender attached to the other foot is a safe point of attachment, but only because it has an additional cord/strap going up to the seat harness. Therefore the 3rd ascender that "rides" free above the chest roller (and also attaches to the seat harness) is really only the 2nd ascender for safety purposes - plus it provides for a seated resting position occasionally.

I'm not sure how comfortable the "Belay Pod" is - but it seems unlikely to find much use in caving, even in rescue. It wouldn't be very efficient as your "regular" harness, and if someone has a problem on rope the priority would be to get them down QUICK - not to fluff around getting a belay seat on them. It might be useful for hauling them up a pitch depending on their medical condition, but despite the added hassle I would probably prefer to just package them in a full litter.

In regard to Harness Hang/Suspension Trauma/Compartmental Syndrome etc - it should be pointed out (for the benefit of other readers) that this only occurs in unconscious or immobile subjects - because anyone else will naturally tend to fidget and keep the blood flowing once they get uncomfortable. Geoff - I assume once off-rope you try to keep the patient upright/seated so no blood clots shoot to the heart/lungs/brain, right? Any other advice on that? Website links, perhaps?

[madratdan]

geoff said:

Drbeaner
with your rope walker system and others used in US do you have procedures for getting a person off the rope real quick if they get stuck ? ?

say they were just refusing to move by shear fright first time down, maybe total exhaustion, do you actually train so someone in the caving party could get them off the rope quickly, within say a 10 minute period and if you do are there any problems coping with the various different rigs people use, or would it be normal practice to wait for cave rescue ??

Geoff

Hi Geoff,
Here in Colorado, we have several cavers that both lead and participate in the Mexico expeditions. They train and use the European rigging technique exclusively down there, and practice pick offs all the time. They also practice how to pick off someone using a rope walker system. We have a rescue dummy I made out of 4" fire hose that we hang on rope to practice with. Everyone I'm talking about uses the frog system with a Pantine on one foot and a micro rack with hyper bar.

I know Mikey has four different styles of pick offs he has learned, mainly from the Polish and Australian cavers he's met in Mexico. Mikey even went over to Poland last year and took one of their Winter caving courses. I believe it was with Speleoklub Warszawski.

Anyway, here in Colorado, where our deepest pit is like 50 meters deep and far between, we do as the Romans do...........which is what ever works for the drop and cave you are visiting. It's not uncommon to take minimal gear for that 20' nuisance drop and pass it up and down the rope. Usually we take two frog systems along with a prussic or two in case the rope is really muddy. Figure 8's and Micro racks are the norm.

So I guess I'd have to say, that in the US we use all of the above, depending on the cave and area you are caving in. Heck, part of the fun of caving in America is seeing how many different climbing systems a person can come up with and use.

[geoff]

nzcaver said:

In regard to Harness Hang/Suspension Trauma/Compartmental Syndrome etc - it should be pointed out (for the benefit of other readers) that this only occurs in unconscious or immobile subjects - because anyone else will naturally tend to fidget and keep the blood flowing once they get uncomfortable. Geoff - I assume once off-rope you try to keep the patient upright/seated so no blood clots shoot to the heart/lungs/brain, right? Any other advice on that? Website links, perhaps?

Hi NZcaver,
sorry all if this topic is a little off track, but it was initially relevant for the speed of getting someone off the different rope systems......

Have a look at
www.suspensiontrauma.info/introduction/ as this site gives real good explanations.

We had one guy in our Club feeling very faint after just hanging around on a rope for a few minutes and once off, still felt rough for some time. It depends on the individual. Basically a perfectly fit caver suspended, perhaps just having a rest, will faint and die. Bad News ! This can happen in as quick as10 minutes or much longer.

Once you have got them off the rope, the reason that you NEVER lay someone down flat with this condition, and always keep them in a sitting position, even if they have fainted and perhaps need resuscitating, is that their trapped blood has become toxic and you cannot afford to have this toxic blood run suddenly back into the rest of their body ! DEATH ! Nothing to do with blood clots. The need to keep them sitting up is of course all totally against normal first aid practice for someone who has undergone a <normal> faint.

But please DONT take my word - do look at the web site !

The problem, as I mentioned, is that you can have maybe 10 minutes to get that caver off his rope BEFORE he reports problems. If you leave it and joke with him, suddenly he is unconscious; if you are lucky he has unobstructed breathing , if not you are already out of time - the 10 minute clock started ticking from the time he hung around. Maybe everyones lucky and he has a higher tolerance level and you have more time - maybe not....... .

Back more on topic, being a little conservative here in UK, we are less prone to make our own mods, so our gear is similar. and this is good when time is against you working with someone else's SRT equipment to get them off-rope.

Geoff

PS the web site tells you how to avoid Suspension Trauma

[geoff]

madratdan said:

[


Hi Geoff,
Here in Colorado, we have several cavers that both lead and participate in the Mexico expeditions. They train and use the European rigging technique exclusively down there, and practice pick offs all the time. They also practice how to pick off someone using a rope walker system. We have a rescue dummy I made out of 4" fire hose that we hang on rope to practice with.

LOVE THAT RAT of yours !!!

what a good idea using fire hose - I think we will have to make a mod to our sand bags !!!

Geoff

[madratdan]

geoff said:

madratdan said:

[


Hi Geoff,
Here in Colorado, we have several cavers that both lead and participate in the Mexico expeditions. They train and use the European rigging technique exclusively down there, and practice pick offs all the time. They also practice how to pick off someone using a rope walker system. We have a rescue dummy I made out of 4" fire hose that we hang on rope to practice with.

LOVE THAT RAT of yours !!!

what a good idea using fire hose - I think we will have to make a mod to our sand bags !!!

Geoff

Thanks Geoff,
Here is a link to the site that I patterned ours from.

www.saltspringfire.com/hdummy.shtml

I made the arms and legs detachable so we can haul it in a cave, in pieces. Using 4" hose instead of the recommended 2&1/2" hose makes it closer to a human body's weight. We put a shorty wet suit on it to hide the shoulder and leg joints.

[NZcaver]

geoff said:

Hi NZcaver,
sorry all if this topic is a little off track, but it was initially relevant for the speed of getting someone off the different rope systems......

Have a look at
www.suspensiontrauma.info/introduction/ as this site gives real good explanations.

Geoff - great link, thanks! I added it to my bookmarks.

[Tim White]

Here are 3 techniques for removing a stranded caver from a rope. These techniques are using only a single rope. These may not be the most “current” NCRC method, but ones that work for me.

NOTE: Do not attempt these rescue techniques unless you trained to do so and are in good practice. IMO You must understand that if you attempt a pick-off and fail, you too may become stranded on rope! If the conditions are grim, i.e. a waterfall where you fear for the cavers life...you will be risking you own life in attempting a pick-off!

These are my opinions and may or may not reflect those of NCRC or the Vertical Section.


Brute force method
Not everyone can do this. It's not a question of skill, it's physics. If you have good upper body strength and are very proficient on rope, you may be able to pickoff someone who weighs 40% more than you do. On a good day, when you're fresh. That figure is a rough estimate based on observations of people doing it. Try it yourself and see where your limits are.

1. Climb to unconscious caver, remove his feet from footloops;
2. Clip a safety line between your seat harness and patient's;
3. Detach patient from all except weighted point of attachment;
4. Climb above patient;
5. Climb a bit further and take patient's weight onto your main attachment point;
6. Remove patient's last ascender;
7. Change over to rappel; this may be physically impossible;
8. Rappel safely to the ground.
Step 7 is what gets people. Perfect changeover technique helps, a poorly fitting seat harness may doom you to failure.

Counter balance pick-off
This technique allows you to lift somebody much heavier than yourself. You need one carabiner in addition to your normal SRT kit. The key to this is to keep things neat. Avoid wrapping lines around each other: the friction will destroy the advantage of the counterbalance and complicate things immensely.

1 Climb to patient, remove his feet from footloop;
2. Clip safety line between your seat harness and patient's;
3. Detach patient from all except weighted point of attachment;
4. Climb above patient;
5. Clip a carabiner through your upper ascender;
6. Run your long cowstail through the carabiner and back to patient's seat harness on the closed side of his Croll;
7. Climb with small steps until the knot at the near end of the cowstail touches the carabiner;
8. Stand up on your footloop, disconnect your croll, sit down on the cowstail;
9. Pull patient up to the carabiner on your upper ascender; if the patient is much heavier than you, put your knees under him, pull up on his seat harness and rock backwards, pushing up against him;
10. Rig in the patient's descender; lock it off; remove patient's last ascender;
11. Stand up on your foot loop and lower patient onto his descender;
12. Derig the long cowstail from the carabiner;
13. Clip in to the patient, as close as possible to the patient's descender;
14. Unlock the descender; remove your ascender; abseil safely to the ground.
This pick-off uses the patient's descender; if you are not comfortable using his to control a two person load, prepare to put your descender on his harness.
One perk of this method is that you are under the patient and can better control the descent. Rather than just plunking the patient directly at the base of the drop and then climbing off of him, you land first and can maneuver him to a good place.

Another brute force method
1. Attach your rack upside down to the bottom of your half round screw links (maillon);
2. Climb to unconscious caver, remove his feet from footloops;
3. Pull up the end of the rope and tie a VERY small, compact Figure 8 knot into the end
3a. Rig the rope in the rack with the know set VERY close against the top bar of the rack
NOTE: the bight in the rope must only be large enough to accept a caraibiner
4. Tie and lock off the rack
5. Clip the caraibiner that is in the end of the rope to the patient;
6. Detach patient from all except weighted point of attachment;
7. Climb above patient;
8. Climb a bit further and take patient's weight onto the rack;
9. Remove patient's last ascender;
10. Unlock rack;
11. Lower patient to the ground.
Be aware that you do not lower the patient through a loop in the rope!
Rope management is VERY important!!
If you use this technique, you become part of the system. If anything goes wrong, you will not be able to escape the system!!!

[madratdan]

Thanks for the info Tim. I went ahead and printed it so we can discuss and try out these methods at our next vertical training sesson.